First night out/shopping/Miguel

Monday September 10th 2007

I have been here for 4 days and still don’t know how I feel about Buenos Aires. This makes me feel bad because everyone back home seems to love this place so dearly. Maybe it’s supposed to be this way in the beginning. The language barrier is difficult for me. Not being able to speak the language makes it hard to survive. Many things have occurred since I last wrote. On Saturday night I went hanging out for the first time. I woke up still reeling with emotions from my arrival. With my stomach shouting profanities at me and barley being able to stand up I knew it was time for me to go out and buy something to eat. The night before I looked through a stack of menus that were passed along to me and found the closest restaurant to my flat. I picked out on the menu the easiest thing to pronounce. I promised myself the first thing I would do is buy lunch the next day. So I got up took another wash up in the bathtub, (because I still did not know how to work the shower, but at least I finally got the water warm) and headed to the restaurant. When I got downstairs I found the restaurant closed. Not confident enough to get lost just yet, I settled for a small market stand near by. I can official say my first meal in Buenos Aires was yogurt, a Banana and a sprite that tasted like the lemon laxative back at home you drink when you cant go. I knew I was suppose to meet with my friends sister today but was worried she tried to get in touch with me and I missed her call, since I did not know hot to check the messages on the phone in my flat because again the instructions from the voice recording are in Spanish. I decided to keep myself sane in my flat until three o’clock and if I did not hear from her by then I would call Norberto for contact information. I knew if Norberto was not the one who picked up I would have to communicate in Spanish. So I took out my Spanish pocket guide and flipped to the telephone conversation section. I put together the right phrase I would need.
“Buenos Tardes”
“Yo Soy amiga de Maria Fernanda”
Me Puede Comunicar con Noberto”?
Yes that should work fine. So three o’clock came and I did not hear from my friend’s sister so it was time to make my call and read from my flash cards. I dialed the number and like I thought might happen Amelia answered and not Norberto.

“Halo”

“Buenos Tardes”
“Yo soy amiga de Maria Fernanda”
“Que”
“Me puede Comunicar con Norberto?”
“Si”
Norberto informed me that Eugenia did in fact tried to get in contact with me and left me a message on the answering machine. He told me he would give Eugenia a call and tell her to contact me. I hung up the phone excited about having a new friend and could not wait for her call. My feet memorized every inch of the wooden floor in my flat as I paced through the apartment. My phone began to buzz and I ran to pick it up.

“Halo shenny its Eugenia”

“Hi Eugenia”

Intoxicated with the sound of another human beings voice besides my own, I began to launch off a bunch of words in English to which Eugenia replied

“aaaaah more slowly please”

I explained to her how I still feel lossed in Buenos Aires. She told me she is in the process of painting her apartment for people who was coming by to rent it.

“I will come there tomorrow at 6 and show you around the neighborhood so you won’t feel so lonely.”

“Oooh thank you so much”

“ok see you tomorrow”

After hanging up with Eugenia I decided to go to the locoutorio to buy more phone cards and use the internet. Along the way I hop scotched passed the wet torn sidewalk, avoiding the dog ca ca disguised as mud and rocks. After I left the locoutorio I explored the strip of stores that led to Plaza Italia, the plaza everyone tells me to ask for just in case I stray too far away from home. Having only had a Banana and yogurt earlier I stopped in a small pizza place not too far from the locoutorio. A group of guys in conversation sat huddled at a small door near the entrance. When I entered the shop their conversation stopped abruptly and there gaze along with there silence followed me to the counter. Two good looking young men worked the counter one with oil black shiny hair that reached passed the nape of his neck and the other short light brown hair, bright green eyes and a tiny bit of hair under his lower lip that pointed to his chin. Behind them was the window to the kitchen. Peeping out that window was an older man who’s appearance made the word crusty attached to a blimp float across my brain. He had a lazy eye and teeth that ran from each other. Dreading that I picked this to be my first place to buy real food from. I surveyed the food in the glass display by the counter. The hamburgers looked like crabs that had been ran over by a car. You could not tell where the bun and burger began. So I opted for 4 empanadas that looked poofy and alive.
“Yo Queiro cuatro Empanadas.”

I said to the black haired one.

“Canee?”

I tilted my head slightly to signal I did not quite understand what was being asked to me”

“Carne, Carne”?

“OOOOh si si perdon”

He wrapped up four empanadas for me and put up six fingers.

“Seis Pesos”

I paid him and thanked him. He gave me a no problem wink and slid my bag towards me. Once home I helped my self to my cold empanadas because I knew how to work the top of the stove and not the oven. I was so hungry a cold empanada never taste so good. When the meet and onions touched my tongue my eyes instantly rolled to the back of my head. With not quite any friends yet, and no internet or cable. I decided to retire early to bed. As soon as I put on my pajamas there was a buzz on my phone.
“Hello”
“Holla Jennifer its Eugenia”
“Hiiiii”
“I want to know if you want to have dinner with me and some friends or go have a drink? I have a friend here from Italy and he is also lost in the city.”

“Yes I would love that”

“Es Ok”?

“Si Si”

“We can have dinner and I show you some places”

“Cool”

“Ok so I will come by there at 9:00 to get you ok”?

“Ok”

“Ok see you soon.”

Yes finally my luck was turning. I ran to the wooden cabinet that held my clothes and picked out an outfit that was both casual and proper enough for a drink in a lounge. I settled with a pair of skinny jeans, my good luck navy green rutched high boots and a opened back shirt that showed off my tattoos. As I was applying my make up my phone buzzed again. It was Nestor the portero of the building calling. We started what turned into a twenty-minute conversation of neither one of us understanding each other. With minuets rolling by and my eye shadow still in hand with only one eye made up I tried to explain to Nestor that I was in a hurry, but realized I must sound like a cave woman to him. Then the phone line went busy. I finished my eye shadow and began to apply my blush when there was a knock on the door. I opened the door and there stood Nestor with a mini booklet in his hands. He showed it to me. It was a periodical called la nacion junior English. As he showed me phrases written in Spanish then translated to English, and I caught the words Practicar en Espanol and practicar en Ingles. I then realized what he was trying to tell me over the phone. I can practice Spanish with him and he can practice English with me.

“aaaah si si”

I said to him. During my conversation with Nestor my phone buzzed again. It was Eugenia. She told me a few friends called her and told her they were coming to her house so she would send a taxi for me instead. Nestor bid me chao as I began to write down Eugenia’s address just in case the taxi forgot it. The taxi company called me twice while preparing a car for me. It was a mystery to me whether the tiny voice on the other end belonged to a man or a woman, but the voice told me

“shenny taxi 3395. You can wait”

“Si Si”

Not quite sure what I was saying yes to or if the taxi was going to ring my buzzer or if I had to wait downstairs for it. I grabbed my keys and anything else I might need for the night and shoved as much of it as I could in my jean pockets. I did not get the chance to buy a purse yet so my pockets were all I was working with. I opened my door to a pitch-black hallway as it often was. I reached for the hallway light but instead hit a button that set off a buzz in my kitchen. This button turned out to be the doorbell to my flat.

“Aaaaah so that’s were it is.

I was able to lock my door without the light and with a firm grip on the banister I carefully made my way down the twisted staircase being careful not to trip over my boots in the dark. I remembered Eugenia told me the taxi company she was sending for me was called Tango Taxi. So I waited in front of my building for a black and yellow taxi with the name Tango written on the side. All the official taxi’s here are yellow and black and remind me of bumblebees, always zipping by and hard at work. I have been constantly warned during the planning phase of my trip to avoid gypsy Taxis; because they will either 1.Rip you off or 2.give you back counterfeit pesos. The best way to avoid said taxis is to never hail one on the street but to call one from a reputable company. I heard Tango’s name mentioned before, as one of these reputable companies so was not worried. Five minuets later the tango taxi pulled up in front of my building. The window rolled down

“shenny?”

“Si”

I climbed in realizing my name will be pronounced as shenny since in Argentina the jay sound is shee. My taxi driver looked to be in his sixties with silver hair and thick round glasses. His voice had a slight grunt and each of his words lingered between each other. He confirmed the address with me and we drove off. There is something special about taking a taxi for the first time in a new country. To me this moment allows you to view the countries character and people anonymously. Kind of like when your watching TV. Every time the taxi turns down a new street and reveals different events it’s like changing the channel. My taxi driver broke the silence

“Que Pais Shenny?”

“uuuuuh Los Estados Unidos”

He said something else I could not comprehend.

“No Entendi Bien”

He repeated what he said but I still did not understand so I just stayed quite and sat back avoiding his gaze. We pulled up to my destination. I did not know how Eugenia looked but she told me she would be waiting outside her building for me so I knew I would be able to find her. From the taxi window I could vaguely see three girls sitting in front of the building and I thought one of them must be Eugenia. As I was about to pull out my money to pay the cab one of the girls approached the cab.

“I pay I pay es by invitation”

I knew this was Eugenia.

“Thank You”

Eugenia had a cute round face with orange brown hair. A piercing made its home on her left eyebrow. She greeted me with a hug and took me over to meet her friends. I am ashamed to say at this moment I don’t remember their names. The one with long curly brown hair and glasses spoke very little English. The other reminded me of a pixie from a fairy tale. She had short black hair that curved under her ears and eyes that turned into crescent moons when she laughed. As she was talking I heard a singsong melody in her voice similar to the one you hear when a British person is speaking. I asked her where she was from and she said Buenos Aires. I told her I heard a British accent when she spoke.

“That is because I studied in London for a year.”

“Wow I can here it. You have both accents Argentine and English.”

I accompanied them to the kiosk around the corner. Eugenia bought a pack of cigarettes and handed me a candy bar a little bigger than my thumb, wrapped in red packaging.

“A welcome gift.”

“aaaaw thank you.”

I bit into the bar, which was the texture of a milky grain and kind of tasted like a soft Chico stick.

“mmmmm this is really good”

They all laughed with me and Eugenia’s friend who I compared to a pixie grinned with her teeth fully exposed and fiddled her fingers together in front of her face like a villain. Which caused me to laugh even more. They asked me how I liked Buenos Aires so far and I explain to them how it was hard for me right now because I don’t speak the language and don’t really have any friends. Then pixie asked

“Are you alone hare”?

I said yes, and Eugenia interjected and pulled me towards her.

“She knows me now and I am the coolest Argentine in Buenos Aires.”

I believed this true and we all laughed and made our way to her apartment. When she unlocked her building door I was surprised to see it open to an ally way. The structure of the building reminded me of the houses you find in Mexico. I noticed the doors to the apartments were like tin, and when I knocked on the door it made the same hollow sound. The apartment was similar to a loft. Ladder like stairs led to the sleeping area. A small window frame separated the kitchen from the living room and two bar stools sat at the frame. As the night went on I began to feel welcomed in Buenos Aires now that I was beginning to meet people. Our Conversations switched from English to Spanish. They informed me tonight was my night to relax so they would communicate with me in English but next time it will only be Spanish so that I can learn. During our conversations the buzzer rang which caused me to jump. The buzzers here remind me of the sound that is made when someone replies with the wrong answer on a game show. One of Eugenia’s friends answered the buzzer and came back giggling like a schoolgirl. She began to mimic the person on the other end of the buzzer.

“Hola es a Mariano.

It was Eugenia’s male friend from Italy. Mariano was short with curly black hair and a gotie. He greeted us all with a kiss on the cheek. He asked everyone’s name in Spanish, but when he got to me slowly said

“What es your name”

I said Jennifer. Eugenia said yeaaah he speaks English!!!!! A half hour later Eugenia’s two female friends had to go. On their way out they invited me to their Reggae party this Saturday coming up. I told them I would come. Eugenia, Mariono, and I sat and drank bears and talked about everything from travel to Johnny Depp. I discovered Eugenia and I both share a deep love for Johnny Depp. Eugenia suggested that we have a Johnny Depp movie night one night. At one point during the night Mariono and I tried to communicate with each other but we both can’t speak each other’s language. Mariano attempted a little English and I attempted a little Spanish. He pointed to the tattoo on my finger.

“What bird’?

I did not know how to say humming bird in Spanish so I said it in English. He did not understand at first then realized what I was talking about.

“oooh”

He began to move his arms like wings and began to make a buzzing sound with his mouth. I confirmed his mime.

“si si”

He pointed to the other tattoo on my left hand and said

“Mariposa?”

“No everyone thinks it is but its not”

“Que”?

Not knowing how to explain in Spanish I said

“No Importa.”

Mariono explained to me in what little English he could that he knew very little English because when he was studying he hated his English teacher which ruined it for him. Every time I understood a point he made he got up excited and laughed while making the gesture of wiping sweat of his forehead. Eugenia asked me what I wanted to do next do I want to walk around and see the city then grab a drink. I told her I would love that and we headed out. It was now 4:00am in the morning but the streets were filled as if it were 8:00pm. Young Portenos poured out of the collectivos in groups, some holding hands. Couples made out every were and all the bars, clubs and restaurants were full. I noticed as I walked by with my friends some people stopped what they were doing in their groups and stared at me. Eugenia had one good place in mind for us to go. She said if it’s too crowded we could always find somewhere better. She also said cross you fingers that her friend is working there tonight. We got to the restaurant and as Eugenia expected it was over crowded. As we stood in front of the restaurant a little boy no more than seven or eight years old popped out from a crowed by my side. He had a dirty sweater tied around his neck. In his left hand he held a bunch of roses. He extended his right hand. The withered head of a rose lied pressed under his thumb. He said something in Spanish I could not understand. Eugenia replied to him in Spanish. He moved closer to me with his hand still extended and I quickly moved away from him. Eugenia told him to leave and he called her a bad word. I was shocked that this little boy was out at four in the morning.

“Shouldn’t he be in bed”?

Eugenia then explained to me that the parents make their kids sale roses while they stand on a corner and smoke. The children cannot go to bed until all the roses are sold.

“Do these boys get to go to school?”

“No most of them don’t.”

We moved on and finally found another place that was chill and relaxing. One part of the bar had openings in the wall; in the opening were couches like the ones you find in lounges. On these couches were groups of friends chatting. We walked to the part of the lounge were smoking was allowed. As we did each table quieted down a little as we passed. I was beginning to feel like the new girl in school walking through the cafeteria. I must admit the stares can be a little uncomfortable and exhausting at times. Being in Buenos Aires is a big experience. Being black in Buenos Aires is an even larger experience. A little before we entered the restaurant when we were walking on the street a group of guys approaching us yelled out

“Eeeeeeh Brazil”!!!

and pointed at me causing everyone on the street to turn and look. Eugenia said to me

“Yes here you are from Brazil and not the United States.”

Well I was warned that everyone would think I am from Brazil before I came here so the guy’s behavior was no surprise to me. We did not end up staying at the lounge because they were no longer serving food. So we settled on a Pizza place close to my flat called Kentucky. On our way the heel of my boot kept scraping the ground causing a loud sound to ring out into the night. Mariano began to laugh and over exaggerated his walking by raising his feet high in the air and said something in Spanish. I understood that he was telling me to pick up my feet when I walk. I laughed because I was told the same thing at home. He said something to Eugenia and she translated it to me (as she did all night and this was the reason for her walking between us).

“He told me I am making you walk too much and that your feet are tired.”

When we made it to Kentucky we ordered a pizza with Super mozzarella. I noticed the napkins on the table were rough. I pointed to them with confusion.

“are these napkins”?

Eugenia and Mariano laughed. While speaking with an annoyed tone in Spanish Mariano grabbed one pretended to write on it then flicked it to the side. We laughed. We enjoyed our super mozzarella pizza then left full and tired, as it was now 5:30 in the morning.

The following day Sunday Eugenia and her sister Marianela took me through an Argentine supermarket. The market was very small you can see the entire store when standing in front of it. We made our way through the little aisle as Eugenia and Marianela taught me the Spanish words for different foods. As we stood in the aisles two young guys made there way through the one next to ours but when they caught a glimpse of me made a u turn and came to ours. One held his heart as he spoke. I glanced quickly from Eugenia and Marianela.

“What are they saying”?

“Don’t worry all good things.”

Marianela assured me. I noticed the prices were really high. Some small things like a can of beans are four Pesos. The little bit of food in my cart came to 87 pesos. Sure for makers of American dollars this is still cheap but I thought to myself if these fifth teen items cost close to 90 pesos how could I ever afford food if I were making Argentine currency? Eugenia and Marianela helped me carry my groceries back to my flat. I took the opportunity to ask all the questions I did not know about the apartment. I found out the bowl next to the toilet that attacked me with water upon my arrival was an invention to clean your bottom after you use the toilet or your feet. Marianela said no one really uses it though. Marianela showed me how to light the oven and I was excited I could now enjoy warm food. Our next stop was Eugenia and Marianela’s grandmothers house. They wanted me to be familiar with her just in case I needed her help. An adorable older woman opened the door.

“Hola”

They explained to her that I was the friend staying in Fer’s apartment. She looked at me and pointed to herself

“Abuela.”

We sat down to watch a cowboy film (Abuela’s favorite) staring Kevin Costner. Abuela made mate for us and Marianela gave me nail polish to paint my nails. I finally had the experience of sharing mate and it did not taste bad at all, like I thought it would. Abuela said something about her furniture, which Eugenia translated as

“She said she has had this furniture as long as she was married, for sixty six years.”

“Wow’

Abuela then put up six fingers and twisted her hips like Elvis. Marianela said while laughing

“Shush we are trying to watch the movie.”

Abuela made sure to feed me and did not take I was full for an answer. During this moment I was grateful to have such kind people in my life that made me feel at home while I was so far away from mine.

Today I decided to give shopping a try. I still was walking around with a dingy old book bag for a pocketbook. When I stepped outside it was raining. Which made me feel lower than I already felt. I was able to get some money from an ATM and headed to the most popular streets to go clothes shopping. As I walked along the streets I was not impressed with most of the clothes choices and between this and men screaming hermosa every block I began to get frustrated. At this point I did not know what hermosa meant and hoped they were not calling me a bad word. I saw two small boys approaching me. Dirt splattered their t-shirts like paint on a canvas and the sneakers they wore appeared older than they were. When they spotted me their eyes widened and they began to ask for pesos. Remembering Eugenia’s warning

“You have to be really careful because you are an obvious tourist. They are going to focus on you more.”

I just shook my head no at them and held my bag close to me.

“Punta Punta Punta”

They kept saying as they walked off. I decided not to take any offence to it and ignored their insults. After all they were just babies. I walked around further and found that most of the clothing shops were tiny with very little Items in them. I still could not find anything I would wear so frustrated decided to turn around and go home. On my way back I found one shop that I decided to give a try. I ended up buying a purse and one shirt that ended up coming to $360 pesos, which translate to about $111.00 us dollars. Knowing that I am here for the next 6 months without working I knew I had to be more careful because if I was not I could easily spend hundreds of dollars before my 6 months were up. Thus I decided to have clothes imported from home. On my way back to my flat to call my sister to start the importing, a young guy on a bike rode up slowly beside me speaking in Spanish. The only word I understood that came out of his mouth was chocolate. He got off his bike and began to walk with it along side me. I then explained to him that I do not speak Spanish. He made a slightly disappointed face and began to speak in broken English.

“You so beautiful I cant believe it. Como Se llamo”

“Jennifer”

I asked him what his name was.

“Miguel, Michael”

Miguel was an inch taller than me so he must have been 5’5. His hair was medium length and dark brown. He had a very mousy look. Dark small rounded eyes, slightly pointy ears and a rounded mouth that drooped a little. He asked me a series of questions in Spanish that I was surprised I understood. When did you come? How long are you here? I answered his questions the best I could in Spanish.

“Do you have a girlfriend?”

He asked. I knew he meant to ask do I have a boyfriend but must of confused the English word girlfriend for boyfriend. I looked at him with a raised eyebrow

“Tienes Novio?”

“Si Si”

He said thank full for my correction.

“No”

“Porque? I can’t believe you are muy hermosa Y nice.”

“Porque yo Estoy aca por seis mes. So no Novio.”

I said hoping that was an ok way to explain it. I then asked him the same.

“Tienes Novia?”

That was the first thing I learned to ask in Spanish before I came here to avoid any drama. Miguel got a little quite and hunched his shoulders a little. With a crooked smile he replied

“Si”

I already knew this meeting was going to lead to nowhere because I was not attracted to Miguel, but the fact that he had a girlfriend solidified this decision. I was already feeling different and vulnerable in this country. I did not need an enraged girlfriend trying to harm me because her boyfriend was a slut. Miguel than asked

“Do you want drink with me?”

I thought about it for a moment and realized I had nothing better to do and it would be a quick drink and I would never have to see this guy again. So I agreed to go have a drink with him. We ended up walking around because Miguel could not find a place that would allow him to bring his bike in. We decided to sit in the park. It was still grey, cold, and wet from the rain early so the park did not hold much magic or beauty. We sat in front of a water fountain. Miguel moved closer to me until his hip was touching mine. He planted quick sharp kisses on my arm and back and I felt his hand move across my lower back under my shirt. I thought to myself whoa the guys around here don’t waist no time. He asked

“You like or easy easy.”

“Easy easy you are too fast.”

“Where is your girlfriend?”

He laughed.

“Mi girlfriend es in mi casa.”

I looked at him and shook my head.

“No no my girlfriend es no problem.”

“si she is.”

“No no my girlfriend no fight. es ok no problem.”

I twisted my lip at him.

“Yeah right.”

He laughed.

I asked him how long has he been with his girlfriend. He put up two fingers.

“Dos anos.”

“Wow”

“My girlfriend es…”

He then began to move his hands like a tambourine.

“Why don’t you just….”

I mimed the act of breaking something in half.

“If she no make you happy.”

Miguel just became quiet and shrugged his shoulder. He slowly began to pick the bits of nature that the rain deposited out my hair. He took my hand and put it to his chest and told me to feel his heart. It was beating rapidly. His hands were shaking. He held my hand as he kissed inside the palm and the back.

“You are like chocolate bon bon.”

“Chocolate bon bon?”

I began to laugh hysterically.

“Do you like to kiss with me?”

I immediately told him no.

“Why???? You breaking my heart.”

I tried to explain to him I don’t kiss strangers (at least not the one I am not attracted to) but he could not understand in English.

“Es my girlfriend a problem?”

“Si big problem.”

I was bored with entertaining Miguel and knew nothing was going to go on between us, so I told him I had to go. Before I left him I politely asked him to add the twenty-dollar card I bought to my cell since I had no idea how to do it. Miguel walked me half way home but not before suggesting a date for Wednesday at 10pm to come to my house. I said not my house but maybe to go walking around Buenos Aires. I let him believe whatever he wanted to, but I knew I had no intention on ever seeing him again. I had no sympathy for him. I knew all he wanted was to find out what it would be like to have sex with a black girl, besides who would feel sorry for anyone plotting to cheat on their girlfriend of two years. When I got back to my building Nestor stood in the doorway. He pulled out his little notebook and began to ask me how to say certain words in Spanish. When I first spoke to Nestor I could not understand a word he said. I realized as I conversed with him more and more I understood every other word he was saying. Is this a sign that the Spanish is sinking in? Yo Espero!!!!